How To Knit An Easy Sweater For Beginners - King & Eye

How To Knit An Easy Sweater For Beginners

This is the ultimate easy sweater for beginners knitting pattern, so easy even your dog could do it. Ok maybe they might need a bit of help from you but I’m sure you wouldn’t mind snuggling up on the sofa to create one together!

I know knitting your first garment can be scary (admit it, we all worry about wearing those wonky creations that granny made for us when we were four) but I'm here to hold your hand and you can always email me at if you get stuck.

Basically, the sweater is created by knitting two squares for the body and two rectangles for the sleeves - and once you’ve created it I just know you’re going to make another in a different yarn, then another in a different colour and another for your bestie and another and another…….you get the idea!

Buy The Ad Free PDF printable pattern in the shop here

Short on time at the moment? Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here

Want to share with your friends? Follow me on pinterest and pin it for later


This step by step tutorial is perfect for beginners as it is made in a series of simple blocks which are seamed together to create your sweater.

It really couldn't be easier!

If you have more experience, then this pattern will give you the basic shapes and measurements to allow you to create your own masterpiece—make it longer and cosier in a fluffy yarn, or create a cropped look by knitting fewer rows in the body pieces.

What Sizes Can I Make My Beginners Easy Knit Sweater?

Chest sizes are available in 84/94/104/114/124/134/144/154/164cm (33/37/41/45/49/53/57/61/65 inches)

The finished sweater in size is approximately 55cm (21inches) long.


What Do I Need To Knit a Basic Beginners Sweater?


Chunky yarn (size 5)

Size 1 Approx 530m/485yds

Size 2 Approx 730m/668yds

Size 3 Approx 870m/796yds

Size 4 Approx 1040m/951yds

Size 5 Approx 1180m/1079yds

Size 6 Approx 1280m/1170yds

Size 7 Approx 1380m/1262yds

Size 8 Approx 1480m/1618yds

Size 9 Approx 1580m/1727yds

12mm (US size 17) straight needles, 

You can use circular needles if you prefer, just make sure you work back and forwards as you would on a straight needle.

If you're not sure which needles to choose this post might help.

Do I Need A Gauge Swatch?

Gauge is important to give you an idea of whether your project will be the size you want, especially important with clothing!

Can you imagine putting in all that work to find you can’t get your arm in or it’s hanging off your shoulders?

Ok maybe that’s the look you want, but so many crafters miss this stage out and then spend just as long pulling out their work to remake it so it fits.

Moral of the story is check it’s going to fit first!!

I usually recommend making a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch in the pattern the gauge is given for (see below).

Test your yarn against the gauge sizing below or see your yarn information label to check the typical gauge if you want to use an alternative.

Stockinette Stitch = 9 stitches x 11 rows (10x10 cm)

If your swatch is smaller than this then swap to larger needles, if you have a larger swatch then use a smaller pair of needles until the required gauge is reached.

Before You Start

Want to take your project with you? Buy The Ad Free PDF printable pattern in the shop here

Short on time at the moment? Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here


How Do I Knit An Easy Sweater?

Make 2 pieces (front & back)

Cast on 38,42,47,51,56,61,66,70,75 stitches.

Row 1-5 Knit each stitch. This will create your garter stitch hem and will stop your sweater edge from curling upwards (as stockinette stitch tends to do!)

Row 6 - Purl all stitches. This will be the start of your main sweater body section.

Row 7 - Knit all stitches.

Rows 8-55 Repeat rows 6 and 7 to create your stockinette stitch piece. I stopped here as I wanted a cropped and swingy effect. You can add as many rows as you like until you have a length you’re comfortable with.

Bind off your work.

How To Knit A Sweater Sleeve


We will work the sleeves top-down from the shoulder as it is easier to create the decreases by knitting two stitches together.

Cast on 30,32,33,36,39,42,46,50,53 stitches.

Row 1 - Knit each stitch. Row 2 - Purl all stitches. This will be the start of your main sleeve section.

Rows 3 - 6 Continue working stockinette stitch by repeating rows 1 & 2. Now we will work some decreases into your sleeves. Don’t worry, it’s really easy!

Row 7 - Knit 1 stitch, then work your first decrease by knitting 2 stitches together (k2tog). You do this simply by inserting your right needle into the next 2 stitches on your left-hand needle, then wrap the yarn around both stitches as you usually would for a knit stitch. Pull up a stitch on your right-hand needle as normal, then slip both stitches off your left-hand needle. Voila! You have just decreased your stitch count by one stitch!

Continue working each stitch until you have three stitches left on your needle. Work another K2tog, then knit your final stitch. Your stitch count will have decreased by 2.

Row 8 - Purl all stitches.

Row 9 - Knit all stitches. Continue working your sleeve in stockinette stitch adding in a decrease row as stated below: Size 1, work a decrease row every 6 rows, 5 times. Size 2, work a decrease row every 6 rows, 5 times. Size 3, work a decrease row every 6 rows, 5 times. Size 4, work a decrease row every 4 rows, 7 times. Size 5, work a decrease row every 4 rows, 8 times. Size 6, work a decrease row every 4 rows, 9 times. Size 7, work a decrease row every 2 rows, 10 times. Size 8, work a decrease row every 2 rows, 12 times. Size 9, work a decrease row every 2 rows, 13 times.

Work 5 rows of garter stitch for your cuff (knit all stitches). Bind off all stitches.

How To Block Your Sweater

I would recommend blocking each piece when it is complete so that you can ensure it is the correct dimensions for your body (and the edges are straight for sewing up your seams!)

Many knitters hate blocking as they’re too impatient to wear their work but when you’ve put all this effort in to creating something that you want to be proud to be seen in, it’s so important to take the extra time to add the icing to the cake!

Blocking is basically the simple process of dampening your work and pinning it so the pieces can be manipulated into the shape or size they’re supposed to be.

Depending on your yarn this can be as simple as holding a steaming iron over (CHECK YOUR YARN CARE INFORMATION LABEL & DO NOT ALLOW IT TO TOUCH YOUR WORK!) or simply spraying your piece with water so the stitches are malleable enough for you to shape them then pin them in place to create sharp corners and even stitches.

Most yarns block best when they’ve been soaked in water and then rolled in a towel to remove some of the moisture.

How To Assemble Your Knit Sweater

Lay your two main pieces with right sides together and mark the neckline with pins or stitch markers.

I measured mine at 30cm but you may prefer a more slouchy off the shoulder number😊

Join at the shoulders using your preferred stitch (I use matress stitch as it gives a nice flat seam).

Find a good flat surface and lay your work flat with the shoulder seam in the middle and the wrong sides facing upwards.

Fold the sleeves lengthways and mark the should centre point with a pin or stitch marker. Line this up with your shoulder seam and join the short edge of the sleeve to the main piece so that half of the sleeve sits on each side of the shoulder seam. (do this on each sleeve).

Fold your sweater in half at the shoulder seam with the wrong sides facing out and join from the base to the wrist of the sleeve.

Turn your sweater the right way out -Ta Da!!

Easier than you think isn’t it? Now go take a photo and tag me on social media (@kingandeye) I’m so excited to see what you’ve made!

If you liked this you might also like the Knitting Knowledge Page!

Back to blog